Kingpin yo Kwera: Acide Kojic

Acide ya Tartaric, izwi kandi ku izina rya 'kojic aside' cyangwa 'kojic aside', ni igicuruzwa cya fermentation ya mikorobe kiboneka mu isosi ya soya, soya y'ibishyimbo bya soya, inzoga zika divayi, kandi bishobora kugaragara mu bicuruzwa byinshi byasembuwe na Aspergillus.

Abahanga ba mbere basanze amaboko yabategarugori bakora inzoga yera cyane. Nyuma y’ubushakashatsi bwibicuruzwa bya fermentation, byagaragaye ko bidafite uruhare runini mukubungabunga agashya ka acide curvilinear. Ifite kandi ingaruka nziza yo kwera no kumurika. Ndetse, imiterere y'uruhu ntabwo ihangayikishije. Abahanga mu kuvura indwara z’iburayi n’abanyamerika bakoresha 2 kugeza kuri 4% ya acide kojic mu kuvura chloasma mu barwayi babo bafite ingaruka nziza.

Acide Kojic irashobora guhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase no guhagarika umusaruro wa melanin. Acide ya Kojic yibanda kuri 20 μg / ml irashobora guhagarika ibikorwa byimisemburo myinshi ya tyrosinase kuri 70% -80%. Mu kwisiga, birasabwa kongeramo 0.5% -2% ya tretinoin, ishobora kubuza umusaruro wa melanin kandi ikagera ku ngaruka zo kwera no kubona urumuri.

Usibye ingaruka zayo zera, acide kojic ifite imiti ya radical scavenging na antioxydeant. Irashobora gufasha uruhu rukomeye, guteza imbere poroteyine no gukomera uruhu. Ntabwo ifite imiti igabanya ubukana gusa, ahubwo ifite n'ubushobozi bwo gutanga amazi kandi irashobora no gukoreshwa mu kubungabunga ibiryo no kwisiga. Acide ya Kkojic irashobora guhagarika ibikorwa bya hyaluronidase, kuburyo ishobora no kubuza allergie.

Acide ya Kojic, isa na VC, ihuza ion z'umuringa kandi idakora tyrosinase.

Acide ya Kojic nayo ibuza umusaruro wa melanin oxydeire. Acide ya Kojic ihindurwamo okiside na dopaquinone yo hagati, bityo bikagabanya insimburangingo y'urunigi kandi bikabuza ihinduka rya melanin hagati kuva kuri dopaquinone ikagera kuri melanine ya nyuma. Ibitekerezo byo hasi birashobora kugera kubisubizo byiza kubikorwa byurugomo. Ni ukubera kandi ko ingaruka zayo zikomeye kuburyo zishobora gutuma uruhu rutukura no guhura na dermatite. Kubwibyo, niyo mpamvu ibicuruzwa byinshi byera bifite ibyongeweho bike.

Ibyiza bya acide kojic ni kwinjiza transdermal nyinshi, kubuza tyrosinase nziza kandi nta ngaruka za cytotoxic. Irashobora gukoreshwa mu kwera, kuvanaho inenge, kunoza imiterere yuruhu, nibindi.; kandi irashobora kongera gukora kugirango igumane amazi kandi yongere uruhu rworoshye.

Iyo ukoresheje aside ya kojic, nibyiza kwitondera ingingo zikurikira.

Ubwa mbere, acide kojic izananirwa mumucyo mwinshi cyangwa ibidukikije bikomeye bya acide hanyuma yongere melanine.Niyo mpamvu, birasabwa ko ibicuruzwa bya acide kojic byakoreshwa neza wenyine nijoro.

Icya kabiri, wirinde gukoresha aside salicylic, acide yimbuto, kwibanda cyane kuri VC nibindi bikoresho. Biroroshye gukabya gukabya uruhu no kuzunguruka no gusenya bariyeri ushyiramo ibintu byinshi bifite imbaraga birakaze.Icya gatatu, ukeneye gukora hydration ikomeye, witondere izuba ryinshi kugirango wirinde kurwanya umukara.

Nubwo acide kojic ari ace mu mwobo mwisi yera, igomba gukoreshwa muburyo bwitondewe kandi igakoreshwa neza kugirango ibashe kugira uruhare runini.