I-Kingpin ye-Whitening: I-Acid ye-Kojic

I-asidi ye-Tartaric, ekwaziwa ngokuba yi-'kojic acid' okanye 'i-asidi ye-kojic', yimveliso ye-microbial fermentation efumaneka kwisosi yesoya, kwintlama yembotyi yesoya, ekudidiyeleni iwayini, kwaye inokubonwa kwiimveliso ezininzi ezivundisiweyo ezivundiswe yi-Aspergillus.

Izazinzulu zokuqala zafumanisa ukuba izandla zabasetyhini abasebenza kwi-brewry bamhlophe ngokukodwa. Emva kophononongo lweemveliso zokuvutshelwa, kwafunyaniswa ukuba ayinayo kuphela indima entle ekugcineni ukutsha kwe-asidi ye-curvilinear. Kwakhona kunomphumo omhle wokumhlophe kunye nokukhanya. Nokuba, ithoni yesikhumba ayikhathazeki. Abaninzi be-dermatologists baseYurophu naseMelika basebenzisa i-2 ukuya kwi-4% ye-kojic acid ukunyanga i-chloasma kwizigulane zabo ezinemiphumo emihle.

I-asidi ye-Kojic inokuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase kwaye imise ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. I-Kojic acid kwi-concentration ye-20 μg / ml inokuthintela umsebenzi we-enzymes ezininzi ze-tyrosinase nge-70% -80%. Kwizinto zokuthambisa, kucetyiswa ukuba ungeze i-0.5% -2% ye-tretinoin, enokuthintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin kwaye ifezekise umphumo wokuba mhlophe kunye namabala okukhanya.

Ukongeza kwimpembelelo yayo emhlophe, i-kojic acid ine-free radical scavenging kunye ne-antioxidant properties. Inokunceda ulusu lwe-astringent, ukukhuthaza ukuhlanganiswa kweeprotheni kunye nokuqinisa ulusu. Ayinayo ipropathi ethile ye-antibacterial kuphela, kodwa inamandla athile okunyakamisa kwaye inokusetyenziswa njengento egcina ukutya kunye nezithambiso. I-asidi ye-Kkojic inokuthintela umsebenzi we-hyaluronidase, ukwenzela ukuba ikwazi ukuthintela ukungezwani komzimba.

I-asidi ye-Kojic, efana ne-VC, ibophelela kwi-ion zethusi kwaye ingasebenzi i-tyrosinase.

I-asidi ye-Kojic iphinda inqanda ukuveliswa kwe-melanin oxidation intermediates. I-asidi ye-Kojic i-oxidised yi-dopaquinone ephakathi, ngaloo ndlela inciphisa i-substrate ye-chain reaction kwaye inqanda ukuguqulwa kwe-melanin ephakathi ukusuka kwifom ye-dopaquinone ukuya kwi-melanin yokugqibela. Ugxininiso olusezantsi luyakwazi ukufumana iziphumo ezilungileyo ngenxa yesiphumo sobundlobongela . Kwakhona ngenxa yokuba umphumo wayo unzima kangangokuba unokukhokelela ekubomvu kwesikhumba kunye ne-dermatitis yoqhagamshelwano. Ngenxa yoko, yiyo loo nto uninzi lweemveliso ezimhlophe zinezongezo ezisezantsi.

Iinzuzo ze-kojic acid ziphezulu ze-transdermal absorption, inhibition enhle ye-tyrosinase kwaye akukho mpembelelo ye-cytotoxic. Ingasetyenziselwa ukwenza mhlophe, ukususwa kwebala, ukuphuculwa kwethoni yesikhumba, njl.; kwaye ingasebenza ukugcina amanzi kunye nokwandisa ukuqina kolusu.

Xa usebenzisa i-kojic acid, kungcono ukubeka ingqalelo kula manqaku alandelayo.

Okokuqala, i-kojic acid iya kuphumelela ekukhanyeni okukhanyayo okanye kwiindawo eziqinileyo ze-acidic kwaye kunoko ukwandisa i-melanin.Ngoko ke, kucetyiswa ukuba iimveliso ze-kojic acid zisetyenziswe kakuhle zodwa ebusuku.

Okwesibini, ukuphepha ukusetyenziswa kwe-salicylic acid, iziqhamo ze-acids, i-concentration ephezulu ye-VC kunye nezinye izithako. Kulula kakhulu ukuvuselela ulusu kunye nokuqengqeleka kunye nokutshabalalisa umqobo ngokufaka izithako ezinamandla ngakumbi ezicaphukisayo.Okwesithathu, kufuneka wenze i-hydration enamandla, ubeke ingqalelo kwi-sunscreen ukukhusela u-anti-black.

Nangona i-kojic acid iyi-ace kumngxuma kwihlabathi elimhlophe, kufuneka isetyenziswe ngononophelo kwaye isetyenziswe ngokufanelekileyo ukuze idlale indima ebalulekileyo.